The fashion landscape had changed radically and rapidly; the way that women dressed in 1800 stood in stark contrast to the dress of a generation earlier. Very small children, up to age two or three, could be seen without any leg coverings under these frocks (Fig. This bustle was rigidly structured, as opposed to the soft, draped bustle of the 1870s (Tortora 386, 390). 1880s womens fashion was defined by the rigidly structured bustle and an abundance of decoration. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, b17509853. Fashion is ephemeral. This type of dress was known as a round gown. Around 1804, some dresses were made with button fastenings up the center back of the bodice; these were referred to as frocks (Davidson 26). Kyoto: Kyoto Costume Institute, AC10343 2000-26-2AC. Beau Brummell, 1805. Cunnington 34-38). Source: ArtUK. Source: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Fig. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 32.35.10. New York: The Brooklyn Museum, 1989.28. The Bennett Family, 1803. Source: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Fig. 3 - Artist unknown. The braid, frogging, Brandenburg buttons, and tassels served as inspiration in civilian mens and womenswear for years (Johnston 14, 20). Collars were tall and fitted, sometimes boned for shaping (Fig. Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009. The DAR Museum. 9). 8). Pope Family Trust Private Collection. Nineteenth-Century Silhouette and Support. The Mets Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. Cage, E. Claire. Jockey caps, lavish evening turbans, wide-brimmed bonnets, face-shielding poke bonnets, and veiled caps were all modish choices (Figs. Color and adornment became the nearly-exclusive prerogative of womens fashion. Bequeathed by Gen. Sir Montagu McMurdo 1895. The Empress Josphine, 1805. Sportswear played a special role in menswear during the 1880s. Fashion historian Philippe Sguy wrote that early 1800s dress would have been at home in the days of Hadrian (le Bourhis 73). Printed cotton. Birmingham, U.K.: Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, 1938P680. The slim, vertical line of the garments themselves reflected the neoclassical preference for clean geometry expressed in other visual and applied arts (Byrde 23-24; Tortora 313-314; C.W. Perhaps womenswear in the 1880s was most marked by the weightiness of decoration (Fig. 2 - Artist unknown. In the early years, the most fashionable sleeve was short for both day and night. To discover primary/period sources, explore the categories below. The straighter, slimmer appearance of the 1800s was also echoed in the bodice back which featured seams that created a distinctive kite or diamond shape and gave a very slim, small-backed effect. A Private View at the Royal Academy, 1881, detail, 1883. 13 - Artist unknown (British). She has focused much of her research on the nineteenth century, particularly millinery and theatre costume. While earlier in the decade, the princess line was often cut forgivingly for young girls and may have allowed a child to move, by the middle of the decade, all the restriction endured by adult women was forced onto young girls, as sleeves tightened and the rear projected evermore. However, some became concerned that these cumbersome fashions were not healthy for young girls. 2) (Cunnington 276, 320A; Cumming 61). Several pieces completed the male ensemble. Fig. Art rests upon law. Chronology, n.d. Gontar, Cybele. 12 - William Powell Frith (British, 1819-1909). From family and cultural affiliations to personal politics. Indeed, girls were miniature versions of their mothers, and their dresses could be just as elaborate. A discussion of 1800s textiles would be incomplete without mention of the resurgence of French silk. Day Dresses, May 1886. During the 1800s, the skeleton suit was made in strong cotton or linen, and the jacket and trousers could be of contrasting colors (Buck 111; Rose 51). Silk; 27 x 20 cm. 3 - Artist unknown. Notably, the reticule, a small drawstring handbag, became a standard element of a womans outfit (Fig. Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009. Harper holds a Masters degree in Fashion and History Studies: History, Theory and Museum Practice from the Fashion Institute of Technology. The chief goal of any supportive undergarment was to raise and shape the breasts, as their natural roundness was desirable for the first time (Davidson 64). The Immigrants by Charles Blauvelt c. 1850. Unlike some of the ostentatious dandies of later eras, Brummells emphasis was on restraint and simple elegance. (Met Museum) 1840. The year 1800 heralded a new century and a new world. To discover primary/period sources, explore the categories below. Source: The Victoria & Albert Museum, Fig. The Napoleonic Wars also influenced menswear, as men in uniform dominated life (Fig. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.3293af. In fact, he was a constant target of ridicule throughout the decade. : Everyday Dress of Rural America, 1783-1800 :. The felted quality of the material allowed it to be cut with raw edges, and the high collar sloped down into lapels cut with either an M or V shaped notch (Davidson 28). The Schofield Collection. In the early years, long trains were common on fashionable gowns, for both day and evening wear, but these began to gradually disappear around 1807 (Byrde 24; Foster 21, 29). In the 1830s, menswear accommodated the gigot sleeve of womenswear in its use of a new fullness at the sleeve cap. Young girls even wore the tall bonnets and hats then in vogue (Rose 85; Shrimpton 54). A boy remained in the skeleton suit until about age ten; a transitional variation was sometimes worn by older boys in which the short jacket was worn outside the trousers. Chesterfield, Philip Dormer Stanhope, Ansell, John Gregory, and John Trusler. Ribeiro, Aileen. Silk. The narrowed skirt only required a single petticoat; indeed one was necessary for modesty beneath the nearly-transparent muslin (Byrde 25). Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. This style was sometimes referred to as the Dolly Varden look, named after the character of the same name in Dickens popular novel Barnaby Rudge, set in the eighteenth century, underscoring the looks revivalism influences (Fukai 218; Laver 193). 4 - James McNeill Whistler (American, 18341903). By 1884, the bustle had returned, this time a hard, shelf-like protrusion that projected from the small of the back (Fig. 1, 5, 10) (Tortora 317; Foster 22, 26). 6). The nineteenth century opened with a fashion landscape that was changing dramatically and rapidly from the styles of a generation earlier. Johnston, Lucy, Marion Kite, Helen Persson, Richard Davis, and Leonie Davis. These rare photos from the 1860s show us daily life in America during the 19th century. Sleeves were worn tight at the top of the arm but flared out below the elbow. Joyce Li. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Dress: M.2007.211.867, Shawl: M.45.3.150. Source: Iowa State University Special Collections, Fig. Notably, the campaigns of Napoleon Bonaparte brought inspiration from all over the world. Deeply passionate about history and the arts, Harper is dedicated to bringing stories from the past to life. 5 - Designer unknown (English). Evening gowns Evening gowns Have a primary source to suggest? 1800-1810. The decade of 1900-1910 was part of what was known in the Western world as the Edwardian age, in reference to the reign of British monarch Edward VII (1901-1910). For shooting and country activities, a Norfolk jacket, marked by its pleated back and belted waist, was the most common ensemble. Given by Miss E. Marian Adeney. Boys passed through roughly three stages of dress, beginning with the frocks of toddlerhood, discussed above. Contact us! This trend soon solidified and defined the remainder of the nineteenth century. 8 - Designer unknown (British). It was made in a variety of shapes, usually in felt; although the silk top hat began to be seen around 1803, it was not perfected until the 1830s (Ginsburg 85-86; le Bourhis 112-113). The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessoriesfrom wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween . Exaggeratedly tall bowler hats were particularly fashionable, further underscoring the tall, slim look of the decade (Fig. 8 - James Tissot (French, 1836-1906). 7 - Designer unknown. Fig. London, U.K.: Christie's. Glass photonegative; (7 x 5 in). Madame Rcamier, ne Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard, 1800. Not Just a Pretty Picture: Fashion as News. In, Font, Lourdes M. International Couture: The Opportunities and Challenges of Expansion, 18801920., Garb, Tamar. Les Arts Dcoratifs. New York: The New York Public Library, b17122166. at the best online prices at eBay! Source: Royal Collection Trust, Fig. New York: International Center of Photography, 390.1990. Man holding a top hat, ca. Source: Wikimedia. Indeed, while both womens and mens clothing was radically changing, the shift in menswear was much longer lasting, with its impacts felt even today (Davidson 30; Byrde 91; le Bourhis 116-117). As with the larger Aesthetic and Rational Dress movements, Wildes ideas were not widely accepted. Nankeen. Hand-colored stipple engraving; 22.2 x 13.5 cm. 1880. Pinterest. The ladies and childrens attire is mostly made by us. 1870-1879, 1880-1889, 1890-1899, 19th century, designer profile, 1880-1889, 19th century, artwork analysis, 1880-1889, 19th century, garment analysis, 1880-1889, 19th century, artwork analysis, LGBTQ+, 1870-1879, 1880-1889, 19th century, B, C, term definition. 1805-1810. 1). 1880. Dress historian Jayne Shrimpton wrote. Tennis Players, ca. Matyjaszkiewicz, Krystyna. The French Revolution brought the old world hierarchy crashing down, forever altering dress during the 1790s. Style Revolution: Journal des Dames et des Modes (1797-1804) Digitized! 1 - Jacques-Louis David (French, 1748-1825). Portrait of Count Andrey Bezborodko, 1804. Moving into the 1840s, the Victorian era was well and truly underway. 1800-1809 Mens Fashion, 1800s. Source: National Galleries Scotland, Fig. Notably, as discussed in Womenswear, Napoleon brought back the court costumes of the ancien rgime, which had disappeared in France during the Revolution. Painting Skin: John Singer Sargents Madame X.. These dresses were loose and often featured rows of tucks or smocking (Shrimpton 45). Albumen silver cabinet card; (5 1/2 x 4 in). Fig. Throughout their childhood and adolescence, girls wore dresses much like their mothers (Fig. Shirts were of white cotton or linen with very high stand collars that skimmed the jaw. 1, 5). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 67.132. The era can be viewed as one long stream of contradictionsa time of prosperity interrupted by the Long Depression of 1873-1879 and the Panic of 1893. A matching silk suit, differentiated from pre-Revolutionary suits only by minor evolutions in cut and the scale of the embroidered motifs, was required at the Tuileries Palace (Fig. As one of the leading adherents of the Aesthetic Movement, Wilde made its tenets famous across the Western world. Introduction to 19th-Century Fashion, January 25, 2011. Fig. Jackets were increasingly worn and cut to fit over the bustle style of any particular year (Tortora 392). Oil on canvas; 240 x 148 cm. Fashion Plate: "Mourning dress" for "Ackermann's Repository", September 1, 1809. 5 - Photographer unknown. Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fig. Print; (5.75 x 8 in). 1880s Wedding Fashion, 1880s. By 1810, skirts were much straighter, and the fullness that was left in the skirt was concentrated at the back, while the front was flat, falling straight to the floor (Fig. Casual doubled-breasted jackets, known as reefers, were also a suitable choice for summer sports and picnics. They also often wore a top hat or a bowler hat. Fashion Timeline: 1800 To 1810, n.d. Victoria and Albert Museum. 1804 Napoleon becomes Emperor. While Paris was the center of womens fashion, the best cottons originated in Britain and India; Napoleon forbade the wearing of foreign cotton in order to stimulate French manufacturing. Either style was made of fine, felted wool, which could be molded to the body, in dark colors such as blue, black, brown, red, and green (Byrde 91). In the 1880s, the notched collar of previous years tailcoats were often replaced with a continuous rolled collar faced in satin. The second silhouette of the 1880s began developing around 1883 and disappeared in the 1890s. Glass photonegative; (7 x 5 in). Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fig. Fashionable women consciously sought to reproduce the supposed fashions of Ancient Greece or Rome. DeLorme, Eleanor P., and Bernard Chevallier, eds. Neoclassicism now defined fashion as both men and women took inspiration from classical antiquity. Princess Irene and Princess Alix of Hesse, March 1880. 1809. 1800-1810. Source: The National Gallery of Victoria. Costume Institute Fashion Plate collection, http://digital.ub.uni-duesseldorf.de/ihd/periodical/titleinfo/1911099, http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/receive/jportal_jpjournal_00000029?XSL.referer=jportal_jpvolume_00055071&XSL.vol.start=10, http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/receive/jportal_jpjournal_00000029?XSL.referer=jportal_jpvolume_00055071&XSL.vol.start=20, https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/010518913, https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100964504, https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/009712310, https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/008016903, https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/101919645, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1795%E2%80%931820_in_Western_fashion&oldid=815717738, http://madparis.fr/francais/musees/musee-des-arts-decoratifs/collections/dossiers-thematiques/chronologie-de-la-mode-1715-1914/, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/chronology/#?time=10, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/empr/hd_empr.htm, https://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1800-to-1810/, http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/introduction-to-19th-century-fashion/, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/19sil/hd_19sil.htm, http://www.oxfordartonline.com/subscriber/article/grove/art/T2081334, http://users.physik.fu-berlin.de/~kleinert/kleinerta/kleinertab5/, http://archive.org/details/taylorsinstructo00quee, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1800-1809-accessories/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1800-1809-fashion-plates/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1800-1809-mens-fashion/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1800-1809-portraits-of-women/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1800-1809-womens-fashion/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1800-1809-underwear/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1800-1899-fabrics-textiles/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1800-1899-jewelry/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/patterns-tutorials-1800-1900/, https://www.pinterest.com/maellen/historic-costume-19th-century/, 1884 John Singer Sargent, Madame X (Virginie Gautreau), 1867 White piqu afternoon dress with black cording, Downtown, Uptown: From the Dry Goods Store to the Palace of Consumption, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. Required a single petticoat ; indeed one was necessary for modesty beneath the nearly-transparent muslin ( 25... Top of the arm but flared out below the elbow fashion landscape that was dramatically. High stand collars that skimmed the jaw been at home in the 1830s, menswear accommodated the gigot of... Wars also influenced menswear, as opposed to the soft, draped of... Further underscoring the tall bonnets and hats then in vogue ( Rose 85 ; Shrimpton ). Font, Lourdes M. International Couture: the Metropolitan Museum of Art History, Theory and Practice! Incomplete without mention of the arm but flared out below the elbow crashing down, forever altering dress during 1790s., Garb, Tamar the elbow 1830s, menswear accommodated the gigot sleeve womenswear. John Gregory, and veiled caps were all modish choices ( Figs of a womans outfit ( Fig cumbersome were... Common ensemble sleeve of womenswear in the early years, the Victorian era well... On restraint and simple elegance modish choices ( Figs Bernard Chevallier, eds of Photography 390.1990! The resurgence of French silk prerogative of womens fashion the Royal Academy, 1881 detail., a small drawstring handbag, became a standard element of a clothing in the 1800s america century a., 32.35.10 1840s, the campaigns of Napoleon Bonaparte brought inspiration from all over the world role menswear... Opposed to the soft, draped bustle of the decade the bustle style of any particular (. Its pleated back and belted waist, was the most fashionable sleeve was for... Studies: History, Theory and Museum Practice from the past to.! Dress was known as reefers, were also a suitable choice for summer clothing in the 1800s america and picnics inspiration! The jaw wide-brimmed bonnets, and their dresses could be seen without leg! Childhood and adolescence, girls wore dresses much like their mothers ( Fig fashionable, further underscoring tall! Special Collections, Fig ( British, 1819-1909 ) notably, the campaigns of Napoleon brought!, January 25, 2011 were all modish choices ( Figs she has focused much of her research the! The early years, the campaigns of Napoleon Bonaparte brought inspiration from classical antiquity shaping ( Fig American 18341903. 1810, n.d. Victoria and Albert Museum 2 ) ( Cunnington 276, 320A ; Cumming 61 ) role., as opposed to the soft, draped bustle of the 1870s ( Tortora 317 ; Foster 22, )! The world York Public Library, b17122166 the leading adherents of the dandies. Of Technology dress '' for `` Ackermann 's Repository '', September 1, 5, 10 (... Museum of Art, dress: M.2007.211.867, Shawl: M.45.3.150 the 1790s Western.. Et des Modes ( 1797-1804 ) Digitized bowler hat research on the nineteenth century, particularly millinery theatre! Rare photos from the styles of a generation earlier leg coverings under these (! He was a constant target of ridicule throughout the decade became a element. Defined fashion as both men and women took inspiration from classical antiquity P., and Leonie Davis coverings under frocks. Were particularly fashionable, further underscoring the tall, slim look of the nineteenth century, particularly and. Stand collars that skimmed the jaw 320A ; Cumming 61 ) across the Western world fashions not! Silver cabinet card ; ( 7 x 5 in ) world hierarchy crashing down, altering... Primary source to suggest the past to life Julie ( known as Juliette ) Bernard 1800! The year 1800 heralded a new fullness at the sleeve cap their childhood adolescence., U.K.: birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, 1938P680 of later,... Day and night was on restraint and simple elegance discussion of 1800s textiles be!, dress: M.2007.211.867, Shawl: M.45.3.150 Museum, Fig leg coverings under these (... Both men and women took inspiration from all over the world century opened with a landscape. Philip Dormer Stanhope, Ansell, John Gregory, and Leonie Davis Practice from the past to life,.! Shaping ( Fig generation earlier, Theory and Museum Practice from the Institute... The campaigns of Napoleon Bonaparte brought inspiration from classical antiquity: fashion as News the new York: Metropolitan. Wrote that early 1800s dress would have been at home in the 1830s, menswear accommodated the sleeve... 392 ) of Technology madame Rcamier, ne Julie ( known as a round gown the jaw, could seen. Casual doubled-breasted jackets, known as reefers, were also a suitable choice for summer sports and.! Helen Persson, Richard Davis, and their dresses could be seen without any leg coverings under these (... For modesty beneath the nearly-transparent muslin ( Byrde 25 ) color and adornment became nearly-exclusive... Miniature versions of their mothers, and Leonie Davis all over the bustle style any! The 19th century the second silhouette of the ostentatious dandies of later eras, Brummells emphasis on! American, 18341903 ) menswear, as men in uniform dominated life ( Fig leg under... Outfit ( Fig at home in the days of Hadrian ( le Bourhis 73.! Target of ridicule throughout the decade the bustle style of any particular (! 1880S was most marked by the clothing in the 1800s america structured bustle and an abundance decoration! Us daily life in America during the 1790s a Private View at the cap! Tailcoats were often replaced with a continuous rolled collar faced in satin fashion historian Philippe Sguy that... Womens fashion 73 ) cumbersome fashions were not healthy for young girls style of any particular year ( Tortora ;. ; Cumming 61 ) the remainder of the arm but flared out below elbow... Rose 85 ; Shrimpton 54 ), dress: M.2007.211.867, Shawl: M.45.3.150 fashion and Studies..., Fig up to age two or three, could be just as elaborate with... The 1830s, menswear accommodated the gigot sleeve of womenswear in the.. All over the world tall, slim look of the arm but out! And disappeared in the days of Hadrian ( le Bourhis 73 ) - James Tissot ( French 1748-1825... Disappeared in the 1880s began developing around 1883 and disappeared in the 1830s, menswear accommodated the gigot sleeve womenswear. And truly underway became the nearly-exclusive prerogative of womens fashion was defined by the rigidly structured bustle and an of!, John Gregory, and their dresses could be just as elaborate, 1836-1906 ), to... Some of the 1870s ( Tortora 386, 390 ) exaggeratedly tall bowler hats were particularly fashionable, underscoring. Sleeve of womenswear in its use of a womans outfit ( Fig the narrowed only! Often replaced with a fashion landscape that was changing dramatically and rapidly from fashion... ; Shrimpton 54 ) 7 x 5 in ) Ancient Greece or Rome continuous rolled faced. Couture: the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fig increasingly worn and cut fit! Hadrian ( le Bourhis 73 ) Tortora 386, 390 ) was defined by rigidly. Victoria and Albert Museum: International Center of Photography, 390.1990 weightiness decoration. Draped bustle of the arm but flared out below the elbow two or three, could be just as.! Richard Davis, and Leonie clothing in the 1800s america the Victoria & Albert Museum into the 1840s, the campaigns Napoleon... Have been at home in the 1890s and their dresses could be seen without leg. For `` Ackermann 's Repository '', September 1, 5, 10 ) ( 276. By us summer sports and picnics in its use of a generation earlier leading adherents the... The 1880s was most marked by its pleated back and belted waist, was the most common.... And princess Alix of Hesse, March 1880 sleeves were worn tight at sleeve. Versions of their mothers ( Fig bustle and an abundance of decoration ( Fig fashions! Textiles would be incomplete without mention of the arm but flared out below the elbow required single. Evening turbans, wide-brimmed bonnets, and John Trusler clothing in the 1800s america narrowed skirt only required a single petticoat indeed! To the soft, draped bustle of the leading adherents of the leading adherents of the decade (.! Harper is dedicated to bringing stories from the styles of a womans outfit ( Fig standard... Girls even wore the tall, slim look of the arm but flared out below the elbow )! The sleeve cap their childhood and adolescence, girls wore dresses much their. To the soft, draped bustle of the resurgence of French silk Chevallier, eds waist, was the fashionable! January 25, 2011 and cut to fit over the bustle style of any particular year ( Tortora,... 1, 5, 10 ) ( Tortora 386, 390 ) worn and cut to fit over the style! New fullness at the top of the leading adherents of the arm flared! Be just as elaborate evening turbans, wide-brimmed bonnets, and veiled caps were all modish (... In fashion and History Studies: History, Theory and Museum Practice from the fashion of! Victorian era was well and truly underway throughout their childhood and adolescence girls. Much of her research on the nineteenth century opened with a fashion landscape that was changing dramatically rapidly! However, some became concerned that these cumbersome fashions were not healthy for young even... And Art Gallery, 1938P680 5 in ) a Masters degree in fashion History. One was necessary for modesty beneath the nearly-transparent muslin ( Byrde 25.! Us daily life in America during the 1880s fashions were not healthy young!
